![]() Induction is from a 22mm Keihin carburetor, and a black high-mount exhaust system exits out the center.Īn owner’s manual, a tool kit, and a voided 1983 title in the original owner’s name are included in the sale. The air-cooled 180cc four-stroke single is mated to a four-speed semi-automatic transmission that drives the rear wheel via an enclosed drive chain. I really bought it for parts for my 200m. ![]() It has been converted to chain drive with a 185 (I think S) engine in it. No odometer or hourmeter was equipped, therefore total mileage is unknown. 731 Honda ATC185S Engine no spark Hey, I just picked up a Big Red 200es. Starting is from a pull-rope recoil system. Run and light switches are situated on the left side of the chrome handlebar, while a thumb-operated throttle is located on the right. ![]() A conventional fork with rubber gaiters comprises the three-wheeler’s only suspension. Braking is from drums at both ends, with the rear controlled by both a foot pedal and a hand lever. Sign In track orders/account Home Shop OEM Parts. Steel 8″ wheels are mounted with older 11.00×22 Pro/Am H-Trak knobby tires. We carry a large selection of 1983 Honda ATC185S Tires & Wheels Accessories at CyclePartsNation. The seller notes a ding on the fuel tank as well as scratches on plastic parts, and a few areas of touch up paint, which are viewable in the photo gallery. Features include a chrome rear grab bar, black mud guards, a black seat, and both a headlight and a taillight. The metal 2.3-gallon fuel tank is finished in red with blue and white stripes, and the plastic fenders are colored to match. This ATC185S is offered no reserve with an owner’s manual, a tool kit, a voided 1983 title, and a clean Washington State title in the seller’s name. The three-wheeler is finished in red with blue and white stripes and features black mud guards, front suspension, front and rear drum brakes, a black seat, and a chrome grab rail. Power is from a 180cc four-stroke single paired with a four-speed semi-automatic transmission. Its just a coil of wire, unless it gets really messed up there isn't much to go wrong.Ĭheck your kill switches, and even disconnect the wire to them, usually the black wire from the CDI unit, can't count how many times i fought a no-spark condition only to find out it was a rusted up kill switch shorting the kill wire.This 1983 Honda ATC185S was acquired by the seller in December 2021 from a motorcycle dealership which had reportedly taken it on consignment from its original owner. Its definitely possible you have a problem with the stator coil if water got in there and corroded it all, but usually even then i find its just a broken solder joint and a quick touch up with the soldering iron gets it working again. I just took a 24v bulb, but a 12v bulb would work to its just what i had laying in the junk box, and put a clip lead on for the ground and a bullet connector to plug into that wire. I made a test light for checking them this year, my old faithful one broke. But even with the recoil you will see voltage, if you have an analog voltmeter that works even better for this cause you can see the needle swing on the meter faster then you can see the digital meters digits change up and down. If it was an electric start you can usually read around 10-20v AC output on that wire when spinning it over with the starter. If you have a voltmeter set it to AC volts, put the positive lead on the black/red wire and the negative lead to the motor case, pull it over a few times, you should see voltage. ![]() I replaced six of them this summer alone on a junkers i got running and fixed up for people. I go through CDI units like arse wipe here. HONDA ATC 185 S ATC 200 ES XR200 XL 200 16100-VM5-0-073. I would almost bet on the CDI, seems like every time i get one with a no spark condition the first thing i do is just grab a spare CDI and toss it on and it fires up. ![]()
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